Maria at Newport Wine Cellar donated a quartet of beers from Cavalry Brewing Company to be submitted to my ire and disdain. Here are my snap judgements:

First on the chopping block is the Dog Soldier Golden Ale. Simply put, there is nothing to recommend this beer. Foamy, shallow, and without substance.

Next up is the Hatch Plug Ale. This is a decent food beer, richer and approachable. I wouldn’t be ashamed to offer this one to friends, preferably accompanied by a burger or two.

Onto the Marauder IPA. This, unfortunately, seems to follow the ugliest IPA formula of taking an otherwise B- beer and ruining it with an exaggerated alcohol content and/or sense of self-importance. Pass on it.

Lastly, the Nomad Stout. in my critical opinion, this one is 60% meh, 40% bleh. Not unlike a Guinness that’s been re-engineered to accentuate the crappier parts and neglect the good ones. Bitterness without balance or complexity, topped by a ridiculous lacey head.

I like a start-up business, especially a (relatively) local one. But Cavalry’s fancy labels and exaggerated military tie-ins are no substitute for experience and restraint.